Taverna Romana (Forum)
via della madonna dei monti 79
tel: 064745325
Tonino and Lucia have been running the joint since the early 60's, when they took over from his parents. This is great Roman food, at a reasonable price, in the heart of Rome. It's always full, and they don't take reservations, so expect to wait a bit on a quiet cobblestone street. Life could be worse! Be sure and get the antipasto, some of the best olivi dolci and peccorino Romano you're likely to find. BTW, don't be put off by the owner's stern manner, they are very old school and when you get to know them, you find that strangely their grimness is part of their charm...

Taverna dei Fori Imperiali (Forum)
via della madonna dei monti 16
tel: 066798643
The Liberatore family is on their fourth generation of running restaurants and it shows. This charming little place is constantly full with locals and increasingly foreigners as guests such as Julian Schnabel and Dustin Hoffman blow the cover of this once unknown locale. They offer a dazzling selection of daily specials, so don't bother with the menu, just hold off until the waiter arrives. For antipasto, the caponata, a sweet/sour eggplant dish is out of this world. Reservations are a good idea.

Matricianella (Piazza Colonna)
via del leone 4
tel: 066832100
In the heart of the politicians near montecitorio, you know you can't go wrong if the senators have lunch here. This comfortable, low-key, wood and brass restaurant on a quiet side street close to via del Corso offers Roman cooking at its best; artichokes, chicory, amatriciana pasta, pagliata (if you don't know what it is, go google it) and an enormous wine list. Reservations are a good idea.

La Taverna dei Quaranta (Colosseum)
via Claudia 24
tel: 067005533
It's always surprising to have this friendly, laid-back restaurant just a stone's throw from the Colosseum. Started around the turn of the century by a group of 40 communists, the Tavern of the Forty serves good Roman food alongside a number of nice pasta specialties. Try their strozzapreti (priest stranglers!) with zuchini and gorgonzola or the lunette di mandorla (half moon pasta stuffed with almonds and truffles). Reservations are not usually necessary.

La Tartaruga (Campo dei Fiori)
Via del Monte della Farina 53
tel: 066869473
Tucked behind the madness of Campo dei Fiori is this quiet cobblestone street with a handful of laid-back bars and the deliciously tiny Tartaruga. Run by a husband and wife team that are as much Jazz afficionados as they are gourmets, everything in this place is done over with a loving touch. The pork ribs with artichoke are highly recommended, and if you want to make instant friends, just ask them what's playing softly on the stero!

Cavour 313 (Forum)
Via Cavour 313
tel: 066785496
One hundred yards from the Forum is one of Rome's first modern wine bars. It's warm, woody atmosphere is offset by the glints of hundreds of bottles stacked in every corner. Friendly staff, and a huge wine list that caters to any budget, knowledgeable and not at all snobby, they'll help you to a great bottle that will happily accompany your meal. The food is on the simple side, and is a great relief when you just can't do one more big meal. Lots of tapas-style mixed plates of cheeses, meats and assorted Italian delicacies alongside a special of the day for those looking for something a little more substantial. Reservation not usually necesary.

Boccon Divino (Corso Vittorio)
Via del Pavone 28/30
tel: 0668135051
This place is something of a secret. We almost feel guilty putting it on this page, because it is a Roman refuge in the heart of the touristic center. Hidden in an alley just around the corner from the charming via dei Banchi Vecchi, a street that sports several great wine bars and a handful of excellent restaurants, is this simple, rustic trattoria with modest prices, simple wine and fantastic food. The joint is always jumping with the boisterous voices of the locals, the ravioli are always excellent, the cheap wine is always drinkable, hell, everything here is good, it's just authentic roman food for Romans. Get here about 7:45 PM if you want a seat, otherwise you can try and reserve, but your Italian had better be fairly good!

Edy (Piazza di Spagna)
Via del Babuino 4
tel: 0636001738
On a side street between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo, surrounded by chique boutiques is this stylish and unpretentious little restaurant that cooks divinely. The seafood plates are consistently great, crowned by their cartaccio, spaghetti and mixed seafood baked in a foil wrap to trap the flavour. In an area choked with mediocre restaurants catering to tourists who don't know any better, Edy is a real jewel.

Maccheroni (Pantheon)
Piazza delle Coppelle 44
tel: 0668307895
Close to the Pantheon, this restaurant has a perfect mix of ample outdoor seating with a lovely, classic set of dining rooms, several which look in on the kitchen. Always bustling, and a bit impersonal in its delviery, Macheronni nevertheless serves up reliably high quality Roman cooking in a part of town that can be dicey.

Arlų (Vatican)
Borgo pio 135
tel: 066868936
Near Vatican City you can find some of the best, and much of the worst cooking Rome has to offer. Some restaurateurs wait like spiders in their hole to corral you into eating a microwaved pizza for thirty euros. Thank heavens there are a few saints such as Arlų to take us pilgrims into their tender, small restaurants, rest our tired feet, and feed us delicious, soul awakening food.

Griaziella e Alberto (Vatican)
via del mascherino 62
tel: 066832663
Near the Vatican Museum where in most places you can guarantee you will eat poorly and pay dearly, is this exceptional ma and pa trattoria. If you're ever wondering what happened to the Fellini-esque madness of Rome, look no further than this couple who, between the insults and wild hand gestures of an Italian couple straight out of a neo-realist film of the 1950's deliver up fabulous Roman cooking. The anitpasto alone, with its mountains of mozarella and bruschetta al pommodoro is often enough for a a lunch time meal.

Boccon Divino (Pantheon)
Piazza in Campo Marzio, 6
tel: 0668308626
closed: Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.
In a palazzo from the 1400's on the piazza in Campo Marzio, what was once the ancient training grounds of the Roman army. This charming little piazza with ancient columns holds Boccon Divino. Outdoor seating, two elegant and refined dining rooms. Updated mediterranean cuisine and a good wine list make this spot near and yet just far enough away from the Pantheon an excellent choice for lunch or dinner.

Al Presidente (Trevi Fountain)
via in Arcione 95
tel: 066797342
closed: Mondays.
Exclusive feeling and private with a lovely little enclosed garden area. A stone's throw from the Trevi fountain below the Quirinal hill, this place stands out due to its refreshing combination of a light and innovative menu concentrating on daily specials. Wild seafood, top-quality meats, great service and an excellent wine list. Fixed price menu or buffet (not Sundays) at lunch. Large daily selection of wines by the glass.

Ristorante Spirito Divino
via dei Genovese 31 A/B - Vicolo dell'Atleta 13
tel: 065896689
closed: Sundays.
Open for dinner only, this elegant restaurant situated in a medieval building housing an ancient synagogue. The owner will gladly take you deep below ground to their extensive wine caverns. Family run, white tablecloths but an easygoing atmosphere. A smattering of ancient Roman dishes such as pork with apples or fennel as well as updated classic Italian served with great style.

Osteria Le Mani in Pasta
via dei Genovese 37
tel: 065816017
closed: Mondays.
Convivial and hugely popular, this lunch and dinner osteria run by a group of "ragazzi" Italian for young people,is warm and friendly and so small you will be rubbing elbows with your neighbors. Buzzing with action and always packed waiters rush out of the open kitchen with steaming plates of the freshest seafood, home made pastas that rework the traditional greats as well as offer new inventions, and fantastic homemade desserts. Dishes not to miss include a delightful cod and truffle carpaccio antipasto, steamed cod with lemon zest, fresh fettucine and clams.